Fashion photography, designed for magazines and advertising, is an ever-evolving genre, much like fashion itself. To capture our attention, it constantly adapts in response to social, political, and economic shifts. The rapid pace of these changes has led to the departure of photographers who could not keep up, resulting in a landscape dominated by a select group of the most innovative and creative talents. This exhibition delves into how photographers closely linked with the fashion industry have influenced changing perceptions of style and beauty. Featuring over 160 photographs from the Getty Museum’s permanent collection, along with loans from various private and public sources, "Icons of Style" showcases a diverse array of costumes, illustrations, magazine covers, videos, and advertisements. This rich assortment of materials offers a broader context that extends beyond magazine pages, illustrating how fashion permeates daily life
In 1911, French publisher Lucien Vogel invited photographer Edward Steichen to create the first artistic fashion photographs. While fashion images had been produced in the late 19th century, those sharply focused pictures were deemed too realistic to engage the public effectively. The release of Steichen’s softly focused images in the French magazine Arts et décoration marked a pivotal moment in the history of modern fashion photography. In 1914, Condé Nast appointed Baron Adolf de Meyer as the first full-time fashion photographer at Vogue, where he filled the magazine's pages with striking images of elegantly dressed socialites and models, demonstrating that photography could rival hand-drawn illustrations.
After Baron de Meyer moved from New York to Paris in 1922 to work for Harper’s Bazar (spelled this way until 1930), Edward Steichen became the chief photographer for Condé Nast Publications. He provided society portraits and fashion images for Vanity Fair and Vogue, transitioning away from the soft-focus style that had been in vogue and embracing a clearer, more visually impactful approach. His choice of models significantly contributed to his success; he captured favorites like Lee Miller and Marion Morehouse in natural light, allowing their personalities to shine. As the decade progressed, fashion designers began to shorten hemlines and lower waistlines, creating a slender, boyish silhouette that resonated with a new generation of young women who defied conventions by bobbing their hair, dancing to jazz, and indulging in public smoking and drinking.
Credit : getty.edu
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